Coats Industrial


Heavy Footwear

Thread and zip recommendations for heavy footwear

Heavy footwear manufacturing involves high speed sewing of multiple leather surfaces. The sewing thread must withstand extreme severities of aggressive sewing, enhance “sewn-in” appearance and increase the life of the shoe. Heavy footwear threads from Coats are available in different fibres, sizes, finishes and bobbin styles to give comprehensive options for upper stitching, moccasins and sole-stitching.

Coats threads & zips

Coats offer an extensive variety of threads and zips for heavy footwear. Please see our thread recommendations and zip recommendations below.

Industrial threads and zips for heavy footwear

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We can tailor the thread application guide to show you the exact information you require, please select the necessary options from the filter below.

Below are recommended stitch types for this end use item.

Thread and zip illustration for heavy footwear
Stitch type Machine type Brand
1 301 Eyelets Nylbond More details
2 301 Counter Nylbond More details
3 301 Tongue Nylbond More details
4 301 Vamp Nylbond More details
5 301 Side wall stitching Nylbond More details
6 301 Sole stitching Brio More details
7 301 Lining Nylbond More details
8 301 Collar Nylbond More details


  Image of stitch Machine type Stitch type Needle thread Under thread
Brand Tex Ticket Brand Tex Ticket
1 Stitch type 301 - single needle lockstitch Eyelets 301 Nylbond 135 20 Nylbond 135 20
2 Stitch type 301 - single needle lockstitch Counter 301 Nylbond 135 20 Nylbond 135 20
3 Stitch type 301 - single needle lockstitch Tongue 301 Nylbond 105 30 Nylbond 135 30
4 Stitch type 301 - single needle lockstitch Vamp 301 Nylbond 135 20 Nylbond 135 20
5 Stitch type 301 - single needle lockstitch Side wall stitching 301 Nylbond 270 10 Nylbond 135 20
6 Stitch type 301 - single needle lockstitch Sole stitching 301 Brio 500 1.2mm Brio 500 1.2mm
7 Stitch type 301 - single needle lockstitch Lining 301 Nylbond 70 40 Nylbond 70 40
8 Stitch type 301 - single needle lockstitch Collar 301 Nylbond 135 20 Nylbond 135 20

Key: CE = Closed End; OE = Open End; 2WOE = 2 Way Open End; 2WCE = 2 Way Closed End; X-Form / O-Form

  Opti M Opti RT Opti S
Application   Specials   Specials   Specials
Opening M80 CE - RT10 CE Reversed, Zero-cut toptape ends S80 CE HydroS, FlameGuard
M60 CE - RT10 CC Reversed S60 CE Reversed, Reflective, Contrast, Zero-cut toptape ends, Stitch line, Boot curved, Pin bottom stop, Hot melt adhesive, Bi-adhesive, HydroF, FlameGuard
- - - - S60 CC Reversed, Reflective, Contrast, HydroF, FlameGuard, Hot melt adhesive, Bi-adhesive


We can customise any puller for your brand recognition.

Coats Opti Fulda slider for zips Fulda
Coats Opti Werra slider for zips Werra

Care Recommendations

- When attaching the zip, we recommend a minimum gap of 2 mm between the spiral edge and edge of the leather, to ensure the slider runs correctly. This is as per the SATRA recommendation.

- Excessive glue should be removed. Caution should be taken to ensure the glue pots and dispensers are positioned away from the teeth and slider.

- During the soiling out process, the side pushes can be an issue if they press against the slider.

- Attention must be taken with the thickness, width and positioning of the zip guards.

- When the zip goes through the curing tunnel, the slider should be pulled to the top of the boots, and the boots should be laid down with the slider facing upwards.

- Coats have a comprehensive range of flame retardant (FR) zips available: Opti FireFly, Opti FlameMaster, Opti FlameGuard; please contact Coats for more details.

Sewing recommendation for Opti S zips – Whilst sewing, the presser foot can accidently go over the spiral and stitch line and as a consequence this can affect the slider running.

Sewing recommendations for Opti M zips - When applying the zip to the bottom edge, the sewing line needs to be just below the bottom stop. Care must be taken to keep a straight sewing line, because there is a risk of needle breakage if it comes into contact with the teeth.

Since conditions and applications vary considerably in the use of the thread, Coats and its distributors can make no guarantee of results. These recommendations are given in good faith but without warranty or liability on the company or its employees. The thread user should assure herself or himself by preliminarily testing that the thread is suitable for the end use intended. Technical information listed above is based on current averages and should be taken only as indicative.